Li
Linoleic Acid
Linoleic AcidBarrier
Essential fatty acid in the barrier matrix. Acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid relative to oleic.
What it does
Linoleic acid is one of the two essential fatty acids the body cannot synthesize. In the skin, it's part of the barrier lipid matrix (with ceramides and cholesterol) and a precursor to ceramide-1, the most abundant ceramide subtype. Studies in acne-prone skin show a relative deficiency in linoleic vs oleic acid; topical linoleic-rich oils (safflower, hemp seed, evening primrose) can support barrier function in those users.
The evidence, graded
strongThe skin's barrier is built from ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in a roughly 1:1:1 to 3:1:1 ratio. Moisturizers formulated to mimic that ratio support barrier repair more than any one lipid alone.Man 1996 · Journal of Investigative Dermatology ↗
expert consensusFungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) is fed by fatty acids and esters with C11-C24 chain lengths. Many oils marketed as 'safe for acne-prone skin' make fungal acne worse. Squalane, MCT, and mineral oil are typically tolerated.Rubenstein 2014 · Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology ↗
Graded per the methodology: strong · moderate · emerging · expert consensus. A weak source on a strong claim gets the weaker label.
Also known as
omega-6 fatty acid
Pairs worth knowing
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